Where else can you ski into a major river (almost) and take a ski train to a charming village?
About an hour north of Quebec City, we find Le Massif de Charlevoix, a magnificent and major North American ski area that offers several exceptional features:

Credit: SkiZone
- Most people arrive and park at the top of the mountain, making their first run down without an inaugural lift up.
- Runs are varied and long from very pleasant groomers (which we like best) to mogul fields, glades and double diamonds. There is even an off-trail sector of 99 acres for back-country adventurers. Le Massif de Charlevoix has the highest vertical drop (2,526 ft.) in Eastern Canada and east of the Rockies, so trails basically keep going and going. (The longest one is 3.2 miles.) But stopping to take in the view is worth it because…
- …A couple of hundred yards from the bottom is the St. Lawrence River. The impression you get as you head down the piste is that you are heading straight into the water. It’s an illusion that is quite captivating and photogenic.
- Not only does Le Massif de Charlevoix host a piste de luge—sled run—that is 7.5 km long, it also has the only TRIPLE black diamond trail we’ve ever seen. It’s called La Charlevoix, it’s “extremely steep”, and it’s designed as a downhill course for FIS approved races. We looked at it respectfully from afar.
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Light rail train stops at Hotel le Ferme in Baie-Ste-Paul
Credit: PhotoGTYou take your last run down, and, at the very bottom of the piste, you and your skis, gear and boots can take a transit gondola to a light rail station where a train will take you about 30 minutes along the shore of the St. Lawrence to the little town of Baie-Saint-Paul, the hometown of the world famous Cirque du Soleil. The beer on the little train was most welcome, served by une serveuse très charmant. Again, the views of the river were breathtaking; we were glued to the window until we arrived at…
- …Hotel La Ferme in Baie-Saint-Paul, a new, very chic, stylish, design-winning hotel built as the first phase of a multi-phase project that will “responsibly” develop the area. With the hotel in town as a four-season destination for visitors, plans are also in process to develop ski-in, ski-out condos at the base of the Le Massif de Charlevoix within five years.
- The quaint and historic village of Baie-Saint-Paul is an artist colony with galleries, shops and chef-owner gourmet restaurants that capitalize on fresh, local agriculture. Our discovery was Au P’tit Resto Suisse where the fondu and raclette brought us to a magical place.
Au Ptit Resto Suisse serves gourmet racelette.
Credit: Tourisme-Charlevoix
So, senior snow enthusiasts, we’ve discovered something new for us in the north. The Charlevoix region is not only a winter destination for skiers, cross-country, snow-shoers and back-country explorers, but from what we’ve seen, there are many outdoor adventures for other times. A short drive from the northeast or the mid-west, this is an experience waiting to happen.
For more information on the development at Le Massif visit LeMassifVision2020.com